Turn Signal Replacement

Difficulty   1   2   3   4   5   29/Sept/07 Hours: 1½

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The signal light would stay on after the switch was set for left turns. Never have I found a time where the problem was something other than the internals of the switch. The old switch looked as if it were original and its time had long expired.

Start: Cap-screw    Steering Wheel

Small Screwdriver:

Steering Wheel If not a first step, now would be a good time to remove the under-dash cover and pry the turn signal connector free from its mating socket.
Next, remove the plastic "Star" by carefully prying up and behind then prying forward.

NOTE: The black color on the rear of the "Star" will scratch very easily if the screwdriver slips.

The first image is "Star" removal. The second image show the 10mm cap-screw that attaches the steering wheel to the steering-column spline.

Steering Wheel

10mm Allen Head Socket:

Cap-Screw Achtung! NOTE: It is very important to turn the ignition switch to the "On" or "Unlock" position. The amount of torque required to remove the screw will certainly damage the wheel-lock mechanism.

Remove the hex-cap screw through the center hole of the steering wheel (Where the plastic Star was previously). An impact driver would be an excellent choice of tool for this job. This screw is installed with a considerable amount of torque and also thread locking compound. This time around, I used a four-foot pipe on the breaker-bar while someone else held the steering wheel. When the cap-screw breaks free it usually does it all at once.

Pay AttentionMake note of the wheel position or make a scratch mark on the spline-shaft and wheel so the wheel position is the same as before. I have been bitten by not taking my own advice. For whatever reason, I have forgotten this step more than once.

Wiggle the steering wheel free.

Steering Wheel Steering Wheel

#2 Phillips:

Remove the three screws as shown by the arrows in the image to the right. Note that the screws are different lengths. The longer one (#1) holds the cruise control switch. The other two (#2, #3) are only to hold the turn signal in place.

Utility Knife:

Pry the Slip-ring brush (These are for the horn) out of the sockets they are housed in. (See the partially removed slip-ring assy in the left picture below.) These two pry out with a utility knife, and are identical. They will, later, press back into the new turn signal frame and be aligned by a rib located on the side of the plastic cylinder. Just align the rib with the key-way and firmly press into the socket.

Steering Wheel

Small Screwdriver: Steering Wheel

Turn the old turn-signal assembly over and notice how the lower cable clamp is held in place. This holds the wires for the cruise-control switch. There are two small "fingers" that snap into the turn-signal assembly pry these inward to allow the cable clamp to slide out.

No tool:

Snake the cable and connector, of the turn-signal switch, up the steering column and out.

Continue re-assembly in reverse order.

The finished product:

Steering Wheel

Post Mortem:

Total job time: Less than an hour. Not much else to say.

Tool List:

Go take your car for a drive, with a worry-free turn-signal switch, to the store for some beer.

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